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12:08 Nov 16 2010
Times Read: 1,143


Witchcraft Dictionary

This witchcraft dictionary is for everyone to use to get a clearer definition of different words that are used in witchcraft. To get more information about a specific witchcraft word simply click on the word and it will take you to a page of information.



Age of Aquarius - the ‘‘New Age’ of mankind

Astral Plane - the world of the supernatural

Autumn Equinox - one of the four lesser Sabbats

Chakra - the spiritual energy centers of the human body

Challenge - tests courage before initiation into witchcraft

Charge - commands given by the Goddess to the High Priestess

Coven - a coven is a gathering of witches

Curse - the use of supernatural power to inflict harm

Exorcism - the expulsion of demons from a possessed body

Elizabethan Age - known as an era of intellectual growth and Renaissance. Intellecual growth led to persecution of the witches and believers in the witchcraft.

Fairy Ring - a powerful site where whitches perform spells

Goddess Venus - the goddess of love and beauty

Lycanthropy - the ability of a witch to change into an animal

Oath of Wicca - a binding oath to protect Wiccan secrets

Pagan - relating to non-orthodox religion

Pentacle - the pentacle is a witchcraft symbol

Sabbat - the name given to the principle festivals

Scarab - considered as a symbol of continuation of life through rebirth. Ancient Egyptians consider the scarab beetle a sacred insect

Solo Witch - a solo witch is a witch that practices witchcraft alone

Triple Goddess - the principle female deity of witch craft

Wand - a magickal rod used to perform magick and witchcraft

Witchcraft - in Europe the term witch is described as male or female shamans

Witch Hazel - were used as divining and dowsing rods to locate water or ‘witch’ a well or find hydration.









COMMENTS

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12:04 Nov 16 2010
Times Read: 1,146


Planting Guide



Begin at the beginning

As early as possible in the year, prepare a list of the vegetables, flowers, and herbs you want to grow. Obtain the seed for them or, if too late to start your own plants this year, opt for locally purchased plants and plan to be earlier next year. Plants which mature quickly such as beans, leaf lettuce, radishes, etc. can be planted even if you purchase your seed well past the last frost date in your area. It is also possible to grow a second crop or Fall Garden by starting many seedlings in late June and July for planting and harvesting up to the First Fall Frost. Plan out on paper where in the garden you will put your plants, taking advantage of windbreaks, shade, and sunlight hours. Save the paper and add notes as your garden progresses. A full and accurate garden record is as essential a tool as a spade or trowel.



The importance of the Last Frost Date in Spring

There are two categories of plants in the garden:

Frost tender plants which will be killed by temperatures of 32 degrees or less. This group is further divided into those which must be started indoors so that they have grown into small plants before planting after the last Spring frost and those which will simply be direct seeded into the garden soil after the frost date.

Hardy plants will not be killed if your early Spring temperatures drop into the lower 30’s. These can be planted directly in cool soils without pre-starting in the house.



Find out your Last Frost Date

You can ask gardening neighbors, call any local agricultural or university extension offices, ask at a garden supply or nursery or at the feed store, or consult a map through several on-line sources. With this date you can now work backwards through the early Spring months and work out what needs to be started and when.





When (and Where) to start your seeds



Vegetable Weeks Before Last Frost Date

Start indoors and transfer outdoors after last frost (These plants are tender)

Chives; Globe Artichoke; Leeks; Onions; 12

Celery; 10

Eggplant; Peppers; Tomatillo; Tomatoes; 8

Broccoli; Cabbage; Cauliflower; 6

Cucmbers; Melons; Okra; Pumpkins; Squash; 3



Direct Seed in garden before last frost (These plants are hardy) Weeks before last frost date

Onion Sets; Seed Potatoes; 6

Kale; Kohlrabi; Spinach; Turnips; Mustard; 5

Beets; Carrots; Chinese Cabbage; Endive; Peas (English); Radish; 4

Lettuce (all types); Swiss Chard; 2

Direct seed in garden after last frost (Tender) Weeks after last frost date

Beans (Lima); Celeriac; Cowpeas; 1-2

Corn; Muskmelon; Watermelon; Okra; 2

Pumpkins; Squash; 2

Cucumbers; Peanuts; Amaranth; 2



Starting Seeds Indoors

Collect the necessary materials for starting seeds. You will need pots or other containers, soil medium, and plastic bags or wrap. Containers can be anything from yoghurt cups to purchased flowerpots, but all should have drainage holes in the bottom so there is adequate drainage for your seedlings. Egg cartons are too shallow; there should be about 3” of soil medium in the container to encourage proper growth of the young roots. For “soil” buy bags of seed starting mixture (note to Organic Growers – may contain chemical fertilizers; read the bag carefully) or make your own. Good soil-less mixes can be made from 50% peat moss with 50% vermiculite or buy bags of potting soil and add 50% peat moss that is 1 quart peat moss to 2 quarts potting soil. Potting soil used by itself is too heavy and packs down easily. Garden soil (dirt), in addition to being too heavy, contains many microbes, including some disease bacteria which may attack your young plants, causing early death.



Moisten all mixes before planting the seeds. Plastic bags or wrap will keep the moisture in your seed trays and aid in faster germination. Fill your containers with the moistened mix and press it down into the container so that you have a firm bed for the seeds. You don’t want them to fall down to the bottom of the container and not germinate! With a stick or pencil create a little trench in the soil or punch a small row of shallow holes. Very important note: Most seeds should be buried to a depth of one or two times the diameter of the seed. For instance, this means that small seeds like tomatoes should barely be a quarter of an inch below the surface of the soil. Remember that in nature most seeds just lay on the surface of the ground before germinating. Having planted your seeds, take care not to overcrowd them; very lightly press a little more soil mixture on top and lightly mist with water. Place the whole container in a clear plastic bag or under a sheet of plastic wrap. Remove it immediately after the first seed germinates.



In addition to requiring a soil medium and water to grow, seeds also require warmth and light. A warm spot in the house, such as on top of the refrigerator, will provide the heat. Seedling heating mats with thermostatic controls may be purchased. Once the seedlings have emerged, light becomes extremely important. A sunny windowsill may have to suffice, (remember to turn the seed trays every other day), but ideally a pair of low-cost fluorescent shop lights should be suspended on chains about 2 to 4 inches above the growing tops of the seedlings. Turn the light on for up to 16 hours per day and then let the plants rest during 8 hours of darkness. Keep the seedlings warm during the day hours (70º) and reduce the temperature to 60º at night. Lightly water when the soil feels dry to the touch using water at room temperature. Check often as in heated indoor conditions soil mix dries out quickly.



When the seedlings have grown their first set of true leaves (which are the 3rd and 4th to emerge), they should be fed with a dilute liquid feed. This can be a commercial houseplant food diluted to 50% weakness with extra water or a fish and kelp emulsion organic food (note: this will smell “fishy” for some hours after use). At this time also, seedlings can be moved up into larger containers if needed. When transplanting seedlings into larger containers, hold the young plant by the leaves and not by the stem. The leaves, if damaged, can be replaced as the plant grows taller, but if the stem is damaged by rough handling the plant will likely die.



What went wrong with my seedlings?

Didn’t germinate at all or very few germinated–There are a few possible causes to this problem. The first may be old seed and/or kept in poor storage conditions. Seed sold commercially is sold for use in that season and has been tested and shown to have a germination rate of at least 80%. Seed that has been kept for more than a year in less than ideal conditions (for instance in a warm place or a moist one) may then not germinate up to the known percentage. Some seeds take a very long time to germinate, and perhaps you have simply not waited long enough—celery and parsley seed, for instance, can take at least 21 days to germinate. If your soil temperature is too cool, seeds will take a long time to break their dormancy. Eggplants and peppers like temperatures around 75º to 80º and slow considerably when started in cooler conditions. Excessive watering may have rotted the seed in the soil mix before it even had a chance to sprout. The soil mix should be damp but not dripping.



Seedlings that grow normally and then drop over or that show signs of fungus or mold are likely victims of dampening off, a bacteria-borne disease. To avoid this condition, always use a soil-less mix which is sterile and rinse thoroughly all containers before use with a bleach and water solution (1 part bleach to 10 parts water). Dip your tools in this same solution and ensure that your hands are always clean when handling seedlings, especially if coming in from outside gardening chores. A chemical solution of Benomyl fungicide can be used in greenhouse environments to control these diseases. Water from the bottom whenever possible. This means standing the pots in a shallow pan of water and letting them soak up the liquid rather than using a watering can.



Pot-bound seedlings have been growing too long in a container which is too small. Likely all nutrients in the soil have been exhausted and the plant needs to be moved into a larger container with fresh mix around the roots. Take care not to damage the roots when transplanting, especially if they have gone through the drainage holes in the bottom of your pots!



Seedlings that are too leggy or tall have been grown without sufficient light, so the plant has stretched out reaching for it. Try to get the seedlings into a place where light is available for more hours per day. Tall tomato plants can be buried deeply when transferring into larger pots or when being moved out to the garden. Any buried stem will develop roots along its length.



Yellowed or sickly looking seedlings may need feeding or less watering. Allow the mix to dry out and then feed with a liquid food at diluted strength.





Hardening off

Seedlings that have been grown indoors now need time to transition into the outside world. If possible, move the trays of young plants outside for some hours of daylight and then return them to the protection of the house at night. A selected spot should be out of direct wind or sun and preferably not likely to be soaked by heavy rain either. After a week of this protected environment, the seedlings should be ready to be planted in the garden beds.



How to plant seedlings in the garden

Once the plants have been hardened off and the danger of frost is past (if applicable) take the seedlings and a full watering can out to the row or bed. Using the spacing chart provided in the next section, dig a small hole. Place the seedling in the ground at about the height it was growing in the pot (except tomatoes, which can be buried or laid on an angle). Press the earth down firmly and water well. Continue watering during the next few days. In some areas, cutworms are a problem. They will eat off the seedling at ground level during the night and then burrow into the ground to rest. Place a small strip (2” x 6”) of newspaper around the stem as a collar. This will decay into the soil, but thwart the cutworms’ attack.



Plant seed and seedlings according to the following row spacing chart

if you are using rows in your vegetable garden. If your direct-sown seedlings come up too close together based on this chart, carefully pull out additional ones to achieve the desired spacing.



Inches Vegetable

2 Radishes

3 Carrots; Peas;

4 Beets; Leaf Lettuce; Onions; Parsnips; Spinach; Turnips;

6 Beans (Bush); Collards; Celery; Mustard;

8 Beans (Pole); Beans (Lima); Head Lettuce; Kohlrabi; Rutabaga;

10 Chicory; Endive;

12 Cabbage; Kale; Sweet and Dent Corn;

18 Broccoli; Brussel Sprouts; Cauliflower; Cucumber; Eggplant; Okra; Peppers; Tomatoes;

24 Asparagus; Tomatillo;

36 Rhubarb;

48 Musk Melons; Squash (Summer and Winter); Zucchini;

60 Pumpkins;

96 Watermelons;



Other methods of setting out plants

Wide row planting – In this method, a bed approximately 30” wide is planted by broadcasting (scattering) the seed across it. This works well in salad gardens where a mix of small greens is harvested at a very immature stage. Harvesting may be done by thinning the bed; that is, pulling out some of the plants growing together in a cluster, or by use of a pair of scissors snipping here and there along the bed to obtain enough salad for the desired use. Larger vegetable drops such as cabbage can also be wide row planted using a staggered pattern of the rows and allowing the minimum row distance per plant between specimens in each direction. In the case of cabbage, this would be 12” on center in a diamond shaped pattern.



Raised beds – Instead of planting at ground level, the surface of the soil is raised above the walkways. Soil may be simply mounded up, or retained within artificial walls of concrete blocks, cut down wooden pallets, old timbers, etc. Make them a size that you can reach into without difficulty, for instance 4 ft. wide by 12 ft. long with access on all sides. Compost and other soil improvements are distributed inside the raised area, and the soil is never compacted by foot traffic. Set out plants in a grid pattern to take advantage of all useable space. These raised beds may be ideal for use by a gardener with mobility problems.



Container gardening – Ideal for gardeners in city environments or for patio gardens. Take extra large plant tubs or half whisky barrels and fill with a good quality garden or potting soil. Allow for good drainage so that roots do not become waterlogged. Seeds can be direct seeded into a barrel or transplanted from seedlings. Put taller plants towards the back so as not to overshadow smaller ones. Feed and water more often as roots are in competition in this limited space. Promptly remove any insect pests or diseased plants to avoid damage to the whole collection.



Water and feed regularly

Just as you fed and watered your seedlings in the house, so they will continue to need attention in the garden. Perhaps it isn’t raining much this summer, and your plants are drooping in the early morning. This is a sure sign that watering is needed. Most plants will wilt in the hot afternoons of summer and recover overnight. If you are using a sprinkler system and hose, keep a rain gauge in the garden to ensure that all plants receive up to an inch. Do this once a week rather than watering daily in small amounts. Do not water in the midday or heat of the afternoon; too much will be lost to evaporation. Spread mulch around the plants to cool the soil and slow down drying. Use black plastic or grass clippings or compost. These will also choke out weeds.

Organic gardeners can feed their vegetables with liquid or dried fish and kelp products and regular side dressings of compost. Do not put manures directly on the garden plants as it is too strong and will damage or kill them. Non-organic gardeners can purchase chemical fertilizers in granular or liquid form and apply per the instructions, taking care not to touch the leaves or stems, as these are also concentrated products and can burn your plants.



Provide support to strong plants

Tall or vining plants such as pole beans, tomatoes, cucumbers, and peas will require staking or other means of support. Peas can be grown on discarded brush stuck in along the rows or on meshes or nets specially sold for the purpose. Tomato cages can be bought commercially but are often too small for heirloom varieties which can often grow to 6 or more feet in height. Install fence posts or lengths of galvanized wire in advance of the plants needing them so that you will be ready to tie up your sprawling vines before they set fruit.



How long till harvest?

The following table gives approximate days between planting in the garden and harvest. Note that plants which are set out as seedlings (tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, cabbage, broccoli, etc.) do not include the time spent growing indoors before setting out in the garden.



Radish; 25-35 days

Turnip Greens; Spinach; Mustard Greens; Lettuce (leaf); Onions (Green); 35-45 days

Kale; Swiss Chard; Kohlrabi; Beans (Bush and Wax); Beets; Lettuce (Head); Turnip; Amaranth (As a vegetable); 50-60 days

Cauliflower; Peas (English); Beans (Pole); Okra; Cucumber; 60-70 days

Broccoli; Carrot; Pepper; Cabbage; Chinese Cabbage; Sweet Corn; Lima Beans (Bush); Crowder Peas; 70-85 days

Watermelon; Collards; Cantaloupe; Tomato; Lima Beans (Pole); Eggplant; Endive; Summer Squash; Rutabaga; 80-90 days

Winter Squash; Onions (Dry); Tomatillo; 100 days

Potato; Celeriac; Pumpkins; up to 120 days

Peanuts; 135 days

Sweet Potato; Parsnips; Salsify; 150 days

Rhubarb; 2 years

Asparagus; 3 years



Insect Patrol

While there are commercial insect sprays available at all garden centers, most will have the disadvantage of also killing beneficial insects which are so important to the life of your garden. Rather than introduce these products to your eco-system, take time to look at the plants and discover if there is any damage and what might be the cause. The white cabbage butterfly can be seen flitting about between your cabbage plants in June. Just turn over the leaves and search out the newly laid egg clusters. Wipe them off with your fingers or a cloth and you have prevented damage from this pest. Look at potato leaves for the eggs of the Colorado Potato Beetle which is a small black and white striped insect. Caterpillars may be removed and crushed underfoot. Look for small piles of green “manure” on your plant leaves in the early morning and you will often find the caterpillar tucked under a shady leaf for the day. Tomato Hornworms can easily be detected simply by the amount of damage done in one night. Find this large pale green worm and dispatch him summarily underfoot or feed him to your chickens!



Weeds

Pull weeds daily or at least while they are small. On no account let weeds go to seed in the garden, as your job next year will be that much harder. Be sure if at all possible to pull the entire plant including the root, as many weeds can re-grow from severed root stock if it is not all removed. Remember that a weed is any plant not growing in the desired location, so a volunteer tomato plant growing in your onion bed should be pulled out and discarded and transplanted into the tomato row.



Cover Crops

In dormant places in the garden or after harvesting an early crop, sow a plant which will be dug back into the soil as an improvement. Examples of such “cover crops” or “green manures” would be alfalfa, buckwheat, Sudangrass, hairy vetch, annual rye grass, or a legume crop such as cow or field peas or soybeans. Broadcast seed widely over the area and allow the plants to come up thickly so as to choke weeds and provide a living canopy over the soil surface. Roto-till or scythe and then dig the residues into the ground and improve your soil organically by providing food for earthworms and much needed plant material (humus) in the soil’s composition. Sandy soils will hold moisture with more humus, and clay soils are aerated or broken down with addition of humus. Be sure to allow enough time for your cover crops to break down in the soil before replanting vegetables.



Making Compost

In one corner of every good garden there should be a compost pile ready to receive weeds and crop residues. Do not leave cabbage leaves, corn stalks, or other plant leavings standing in the garden as they will provide habitats for over-wintering insect pests and diseases. Either loosely stack plant material in a heap or purchase or make your own compost container. A length of open weave wire fence can be formed into a circle about 3 to 4 ft. across and preferably no higher than 3 ft. on the sides. To make compost you need three things: organic matter, air, and water. Damp down the layers as you build the pile with a hose or watering can. In dry periods water the entire pile if rain is not expected to fall. The pile should be damp but not saturated.



Your compost “circle” should be filled by alternating layers of organic matter: dry brown (carbon) and moist green (nitrogen) materials (for example, used hay or straw between layers of grass clippings and weeds). Do not make any layer more than 4” deep, or you may smother the pile so that it cannot breakdown properly and instead merely decays in a stinking mess. Allow air to circulate through the container and lay branches or poles through the pile which can be removed later to produce air channels. Add kitchen scraps but no meat, which will encourage raiding animals. Barnyard manure may be added in small quantities to the various layers, but please no dog, cat, or human wastes because of the danger of pathogens.



If possible turn the compost once during the summer season; that is, prepare another such “circle” or bin, and fork the full heap over into the empty one. This will speed up the breakdown of the material in the pile. If you cannot turn your compost, simply let it sit through one garden season and winter and use it next Spring. Shovelfuls can be dug into beds or placed around perennial plants as a top dressing or mulch. Note that compost is produced by the breaking down of plant residues and manure, and this break down will continue after you have added the compost to the soil – in other words, do as nature does and keep making more!



Harvesting – Deciding if your fruits and vegetables are ready to be eaten

Most vegetables are at their peak when harvested small. Young, tender carrots, for instance, taste much better than older, woody ones. If you are approaching the number of days to harvest for the variety, closely examine the crops and see if some specimens could not now be taken and enjoyed. Some plants have specific tests to see if they have reached maturity. For instance, a Hubbard squash is good for root cellar storage if the skin is tough. Try with your fingernail to make an impression in the skin. If you can’t, it is ready for long term storage. Cantaloupes are ripe for eating when gently sliding your thumb against the vine easily separates it from the melon. They also have a strong fruit odor. Watermelons are ready when they sound hollow or thud when you knock on them. Consult gardening books for other “Is it ready to eat?” tips.



Preserving your harvest

Canning – Preserve many garden products by canning in glass jars or tin cans. Some may be processed in boiling water baths while others must be canned in pressure cookers. The ultimate reference for canning is the Ball Blue Book, published by Alltrista Corp., Muncie, IN 47307-0729. Please consult modern tables for canning times and information as older material has been revised.



Root cellar – If your home has a basement, take one corner and build a root cellar. This should be an unheated area which can be kept dark and cool. Provide open rack shelving and slatted bins for storage of whole winter squash, onions, or potatoes. Provide a screened ventilation source and check the stored produce regularly to look for decay and signs of insect or mice damage. Put out traps if necessary, not poison, to protect your food supply.



Freezing – Many vegetables can be successfully frozen after a process known as blanching, in which the produce is immersed quickly into boiling water and then packed in plastic tubs or strong plastic bags.



Drying – Commercial, round, electric powered food dehydrators are readily available, often with additional drying racks. Many fruits and vegetables can be processed in this way and stored in a small space due to the reduction in bulk. Tomatoes for drying should be of the paste rather than beefsteak type. Dryers are ideal for preserving herb crops too. Weigh produce before drying and during the process to determine the percentage of water lost. Foods should be cooled and then stored in airtight containers when the required percentage of water has been driven off. See manufacturer’s directions. Solar dryers can be homemade and home ovens can be used as dehydrators too.



Saving seed for next year

If you want to save seed, there are several books available on the subject. You can learn how to keep plants pure so that their seeds run true-to-type, as growing parent plants properly is the key to producing good seed for subsequent years. As a very general rule for the beginning seed saver, note that any plant with the same Latin name as another plant has the ability to, and most likely will, cross pollinate. In layman’s terms, planting Hubbard True Green Squash (Cucurbita maxima) and Big Max pumpkins (also Cucurbita maxima) in the same garden means that you should not save seed from either as they are insect pollinated. In all likelihood, the bees that went to one plant’s flowers also went to the other one so you will have a crossed seed resulting. If the plants have different Latin names, like cucumbers (Cucumis sativus) and zucchini (Cucurbita pepo), they cannot cross. On the other hand, several varieties of self-pollinated plants like beans, peas, tomatoes, and lettuce can be grown together without too much fear of crossing. If in any doubt, please consult a book on this fascinating topic.



Having grown your vegetables for seed, select the best specimens from the best plants and let the fruit fully mature to ensure that the seed within is at its best too. Cucumbers, for example, must be grown till well past their eating stage to grow seed useful for saving. Tomato, squash, pumpkin, melon, and cucumber seed all benefit from fermenting the seeds and the surrounding pulp for about three days before cleaning and then drying. The pulp should be put into a jar with a little water and shaken or stirred twice daily for three days. At the end of this time the pulp and immature seeds will be floating on top as scum, and the mature and useful seeds will have sunk to the bottom. Take these and dry them on labeled paper plates for about two weeks before placing in a cool, dry place; for instance, in a bag or tub in the freezer ready for planting next year.



Putting your garden to rest for the winter

Remove all crop residue and weeds from the entire garden and dump all in the compost bin. Anything left in the garden may harbor over-wintering insects which will be poised ready to attack your new crops in the Spring. If possible plant the garden with a cover crop, especially annual ryegrass, before the first Winter frost. This will grow into a thick cover for the garden and protect the soil from erosion over the cold season. Otherwise lay down a blanket of straw as mulch or even leaves collected in the Fall. These will cover the soil and break down before the next planting. Anything remaining in Spring can be raked up and put in the compost bin then.



Planning for next season

When planning locations of next year’s crops rotate your rows or beds so that each vegetable is planted in a different location than it was the previous year. Keep all your garden plans for a few years at a time to ensure you are holding to this rule.



Seed Starting Chart for Flowers

Follow the general seed starting directions above.



Flower Variety Weeks before last spring frost to start plants indoors

Pansies; Poppies; Snapdragons; 12

Calendula; 6

Marigolds; Zinnias; Nasturtium; Morning Glories; 4



Planting and Growing Sunflowers

For giant sized heads, space the plants at least three or four feet apart. Overcrowding will cause the plants to fall in heavy winds. In garden beds the plants should be grown along a fence or property line. There are also dwarf and semi-dwarf varieties which may be grown in mixed flower beds. Some produce multiple flower heads on branching stems.



Planting and Growing Sweet Peas

These do best in cool summers and need cool moist weather to grow and flower well. Sow the seed outside as soon as the ground can be worked in Spring. Vining varieties, which may often reach 10 feet in height, should be planted about 3” apart and support provided. Bushy types should be planted with about 10” between plants. All types need to be repeatedly cut for bouquets as they will die once setting seed. Please note: plants, pods, and seeds of Sweet Pea flower are all poisonous.



Seed Starting Chart for Herbs

Follow the general seed starting directions above.



Herb Variety Weeks before last spring frost to start plants indoors

Chives (Garlic and Onion); Oregano; Yarrow; Parsley; 12-14

Thyme; Chamomile. Feverfew; Catnip; 8-12

Dill; Chervil; Coriander; Lemon Balm; Sage; Savory; Basil; 6-8



Row Spacing Chart for Herb Plantings

Set out your herb seedlings according to the following chart:



Inches Herb Variety

6 Anise; Caraway; Chervil; Chives; Marjoram; Parsley; Savory; Sesame; Shallot;

10 Basil; Hyssop; Thyme;

12 Burnet; Costmary; Dill; Mint; Oregano; Tarragon;

15 Sage; Borage;

18 Fennel; Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis); Rosemary; Sweet Cicely;





COMMENTS

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12:03 Nov 16 2010
Times Read: 1,147


Native American Witchcraft

Native American witchcraft was basically allied with the religious beliefs of the natives of the region. In fact religion and witchcraft were alike in many ways. Both the witchcraft and the religious beliefs held the nature sacred. Many of their symbols and ideas came from nature. Old religion was closer to the spirit of the Native American traditions and witchcraft.



Each region of Native America had its unique kind of witchcraft which used different kinds of amulets and charms. They had their own rituals and masks. The practitioners of witchcraft wore costumes specific to the region. They had their own carvings, totem poles and performed ceremonies according to the area where they lived. In spite of all these regional differences they all shared a sense of awareness and oneness with their land, plants and creatures of Native America.



They looked to their land for providing them the raw material for their magic and witchcraft. The material included herbs, stones, feathers and bones besides articles for preparing the medicines, tools and other instruments such as charms, costumes and masks. The witches had deep faith in the power of nature and tried to maintain a sense of unity with its invisible forces.



The witches and medicine men used several methods and tools to diagnose the ailments of the patients such as crystal rocks and using their trembling hands in a state of trance. Some times they chanted some sacred hymns while diagnosing the diseases.



The shamans, usually women, served the community by performing ceremonies to cure several diseases and ward off evil influences over the weather and the harvest. Herbs used to be an important medium of curing the sick persons.



There is also a reference to a sacred pipe which was very important symbol of witchcraft. Sacred pipe symbolized the medicine wheel and all the four directions in the same space. Pinches of tobacco along with some grains were placed in the pipe which was also used for lamenting.



Owl had a very important place in the witch craft of those days. Owl was considered a symbol of bad luck. An owl sent by a witch could not be killed.





COMMENTS

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12:02 Nov 16 2010
Times Read: 1,148


Celebrating Changes:

For a long time, to be called a crone was an insult. The very word implied a wrinkled, hunchbacked old woman, unwanted and unloved. Women who had reached an advanced age were dismissed as useless hags, and there was nothing to celebrate about it at all. Fortunately, times are changing, and more and more women are welcoming this aspect of their life. We spend many years in the guise of the Maiden followed by a couple of decades as Mother for many of us. Why not celebrate this next phase of life?



Feminine at Any Age:

More women in their fifties, sixties, and even seventies are forgoing all the trappings of "false youth" that have been a part of society for the last few decades. It's not uncommon to see mature women with glorious manes of silver hair, when ten years ago they might have spent a small fortune to hide the gray strands. Older women are dating younger men -- after all, we live longer than they do -- and they have busy, active social schedules.



Women today are far more willing to embrace their sexuality and womanhood during the years which not too long ago were considered the time of, for lack of a better phrase, drying up. We're finally able to take back the notion that with age comes wisdom, and we're welcoming the power of our own energy. We're living longer, we're self-sufficient, and we're willing to share our knowledge and experience with others. We're smart and confident - and that's sexy.



Reclaiming the Name of Crone:

In early cultures, the female elder was considered a wise woman. She was the healer, the teacher, the imparter of knowledge. She mediated disputes, she had influence over tribal leaders, and she cared for the dying as they took their final breaths. For many women in Wicca and other Pagan religions, reaching the status of Crone is a major milestone. These women are reclaiming the name of Crone in a positive way, and see it as a time to joyfully welcome one's position as an elder within the community.



Rejoicing in Our Own Wisdom:

Any woman can have a Croning ceremony, although traditionally most choose to wait until they are at least fifty years old. This is partly because of the physical changes in the body, but also because five decades of learning is nothing to sneeze at! In some traditions of Wicca, it is recommended that you wait until after menopause to become a Crone. However, some women in their thirties no longer have periods, and some women continue menstruating into their sixties, so the timing of your ceremony will depend on the guidelines of your particular path.



A Croning ceremony may be performed by a High Priestess, but can also be performed by other women who have already attained the position of Crone. The ceremony itself is typically performed as part of a women's circle, a coven's Esbat, or a Sabbat gathering. There is no set rule for how a ceremony is conducted, but many women who have achieved the title of Crone find they like to include at least some of the following:



A ritual bath or cleansing beforehand

Singing and chanting

A guided meditation honoring the archetype of Wise Woman

Symbols of initiation -- a staff, a special cloak, a garland or crown

Drumming, music or poetry celebrating womanhood

An altar with photos of female relatives and friends who have empowered you

A celebratory meal

A symbol of the passage into Cronehood -- entering through a curtain or tunnel, crossing a ceremonial threshold

An exchange of gifts or blessings (a Croning basket filled with chocolates and herbal teas is popular)

Some women choose to adopt a new name at their Croning Ceremony -- this is certainly not mandatory, but just as we take new names for other milestones in our lives, if you feel that this is right for you, do so. Your Crone name can be one you keep to yourself, share only among friends, or announce to the world.



Crossing the threshold into Cronehood can be a major event in a woman's life. It's a celebration of all that you've learned, and all that you will come to know in the future. For many women, it's a time to make new commitments and vows. If you've ever had an interest in taking a leadership position in some aspect of your life, now is a great time to do so. This third cycle of your life is the one in which you become an Elder, and you've joined a special group. You have a lifetime of achievements behind you, and decades more to look forward to. The word Crone should now be a word of power for you, so celebrate it. You've earned it.





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12:01 Nov 16 2010
Times Read: 1,149


Consecration/Purification in Spells

Consecration is defined by the dictionary as to “dedicate formally to a religious or divine purpose.” Consecration must be practiced before any tool can be used in the practice of witchcraft. Consecration is a form of purification, and is done with salt, water and incense, which all stand for the five elements of nature – water, earth, fire, air and spirit. It is important that consecration to be used for witchcraft be done in a positive state of mind, as this incorporates the “spirit” part of the elements. Consecration is used in witchcraft to gain the approval of the God and Goddess for what they are about to practice.



Spell for Cleansing the body of Negative Energy

The following tools will be needed:

1 White Candle – this is representative of positive energy

1 Black Candle – this is representative of negative energy

1 Green Candle – this is representative of healing



Clear your mind and light the white candle. Say the following incantation:

“Mother Earth, Fire, Wind, Water and Spirit,

I ask thee to cleanse my body of all negative energies”



Light the black candle and say the same thing. After this light the green candle and say the following incantation:

“Mother Earth, Fire, Wind, Water and Spirit,

I ask thee to free and heal my body from all negative forces.

Blessed be!”

Sit back, and keep your mind clear for fifteen minutes. After this you should feel renewed and fresh.







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12:01 Nov 16 2010
Times Read: 1,150


Birthstones and Their Meanings

January - garnet is the January birthstone. This red gemstone, symbolises constancy and has blood purifying properties and is believed to protect anyone wearing it from poison.



February - the birthstone for February is the lovely amethyst, believed to convey peace, serenity and protection from intoxiation on its wearer.



March - anyone lucky enough to be born in March can wear the lovely bluen aquamarine as their birthstone. Because of its sea blue color it was favored by sailors who wore it as protection from the perils of the sea and also symbolises courage.



April - the birthstone for April is the diamond, symbolic of true and lasting love and innocence.



May - the beautiful green emerald is May's birthstone and was believed to have magical properties. It was also thought to give its wearer psychic abilities. it also symbolised success and love.



June - the pearl, which is not really a gem, is a symbol of chastity, love and purity and is the birtstone for June.



July - dazzling red rubies are the gemstones for anyone with a July birthday. The red ruby symbolises contentment.



August - the delicately colored green peridot is the August birthstone and is a gem that is believed to help you get a good, nightmare free night's sleep. It also symbolises married happiness.



September – the wonderful blue sapphire, symbol of peace and joy is the gem for September. It is also suposed to help the wearer forsee the future and think clearly.



October - Although the lovely opal is associated with innocence and purity is is also seen by many people as a bad luck gem.



November - yellow topaz, thought to calm an ill temper is the gem for November birthdays. It also symbolises fidelity.



December – blue topaz, favored by the native Americans is the gem for December birthdays. It brings good luck and prosperity and warns the wearer of danger









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12:00 Nov 16 2010
Times Read: 1,151


For some people birthdays are just another day, but for others, it's often seen as a special time. After all, it's a milestone -- it marks the anniversary of your arrival on earth! Whether you're having a small group of friends over for cake, or going out to a big party at your favorite club, sometimes it's important to take a few moments just for ourselves to mark our birthdays. You can do this by setting up a birthday altar to celebrate the journey your life has led you on thus far.



It's a good idea to start gathering items for your altar in advance, because you never know how long it will take you to dig out some of your memorabilia. Try to set up your birthday altar a day or two before your actual birthday, so you can walk by and admire it.



You can keep opt to make your birthday altar simple, or more complex, depending on what works best for you. Place photos on your altar of the different phases of your life. Include baby photos, first day of school, graduation, marriage, or even pictures of you with your own children. Do you have a copy of your birth certificate? Feel free to add that as well.



Add heirlooms that have special meaning for you. In some families, it might be a cherished bracelet that is passed down from one generation to the next. Maybe there's a special tea cup that you were given as a child, or a glass knickknack you bought with your own money on your first trip to Disney World.



If people have sent you birthday cards, add them to your altar setup as well. After all, this is how our friends and loved ones tell us we matter to them, so why not incorporate that into the magic of a birthday altar?



Finally, no birthday celebration is complete without candles, and your altar is no exception. You can approach candles in a couple of different ways. If you like lots of them, consider adding a tealight for each year you've had a birthday. If that seems a bit overwhelming, try just using one candle for each decade, or just a single candle to symbolize the Self.



After you've gotten your altar set up, take time each day to reflect on all the positive things you've experienced in your life. Think of the knowledge you've gained, and even the mistakes you've made. Realize that although you may be another year older, you're nowhere near done growing as a person. Meditate for a while on the idea that we truly do grow wiser and better as we grow older.



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11:36 Nov 16 2010
Times Read: 1,153




In this beautiful and powerful rite, the practitioner invokes the Goddess directly into herself (or himself, as the case may be). In some variations, a High Priestess (HPs) may go into a trancelike state and speak the words of the Goddess, or it may be a formal monologue calling upon the Goddess in her many forms. Regardless of how you practice it, Drawing Down the Moon is best performed on the night of the full moon, or on one of the nights immediately before. While it’s more suitable to be performed outside, if the weather is inclement or your neighbors are easily startled, you can hold the ritual indoors.



Difficulty: Average

Time Required: 30 - 60 minutes

Here's How:

Stand at your altar with your arms crossed over your chest, and feet together. Face towards the full moon. Say:



Goddess of the Moon, You have been known by many names in many lands in many times. You are universal and constant. In the dark of night, You shine down upon us and bathe us in Your light and love. I ask You, O Divine One, to honor me by joining with me, and allowing me to feel Your presence within my heart.



Move your feet apart to about shoulder width, and raise your arms up and out to welcome the Goddess into you. The next part is one that you can memorize and learn, or you can speak spontaneously from the heart. You will begin to feel a surge of energy, a palpable tingle – don’t worry, that’s the Goddess making Herself known to you. Feel free to change these words as you like. You are speaking for Her, in Her voice, so let Her say what She wishes. Say:



“I am the Mother of all life, the One who watches over all. I am the wind in the sky, the spark in the fire, the seedling in the earth, the water in the river.



Continue:



"I am the vessel from which All Things spring forth.



Honor Me from within your heart! Remember that acts of love and pleasure are My rituals, and that there is beauty in all things.



Honor Me on this night of the full moon! I have been with you since the moment you were created, and shall remain with you always.



Let there be beauty and strength, wisdom and honor, humility and courage within you. If you need Me, call upon Me and I shall come to you, for I am everywhere, always.



Honor Me as you seek knowledge! I am the Maiden, the Mother and the Crone, and I live within you.



Feel the power of the Goddess within you. When you are ready, conclude with:



I look down upon the sands of the desert, I crash the tides upon the shore, I shine on the mighty trees of the forests, and watch with joy as Life continues every cycle.



Be true to Me, honoring that which I have created, and I shall be true to you in return.



With harm to none, so it shall be.”



Take a few moments to stand and bask in Her glow, and to meditate upon that which you have just experienced. Once the energy surge has subsided, lower your arms, and proceed with your ceremony as you normally would at the conclusion of a ritual.



Tips:

Drawing Down the Moon is an altered state of consciousness, a ritual possession by the Divine. It is not uncommon to feel the energy of the Goddess for quite some time following Drawing Down the Moon, so don’t be alarmed if you feel a heightened sense of clarity over the next few days. You may also feel extremely emotional -- it's not uncommon to cry or laugh spontaneously during this rite.



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11:36 Nov 16 2010
Times Read: 1,154


This achieves a couple of things -- one, it purifies the item before it is used to interact with the Divine. Secondly, it removes any negative energies from the tool. This is particularly handy if you aren't sure of a tool's past history or who owned it before it came to you. This ritual is a simple one that can be used to consecrate any magical tools, clothing or jewelry, or even the altar itself. By offering the tool to the powers of the four elements, it is consecrated and blessed from all directions.

Difficulty: Average

Time Required: Varied

Here's How:

You'll need a white candle, a cup of water, a small bowl of salt, and incense. Each corresponds to one of the cardinal elements and directions:



North/Earth: salt

East/Air: incense

South/Fire: candle

West/Water: water



If your tradition requires you to cast a circle, do so now. Light the candle and the incense. Take the tool or other item you wish to consecrate in your hands, and face north. Pass it over the salt and say:



Powers of the North,

Guardians of the Earth,

I consecrate this wand of willow (or knife of steel, amulet of crystal, etc)

and charge it with your energies.

I purify it this night, and make this tool sacred.





Now, turn to the east and, holding the tool in the smoke of the incense, say:



Powers of the East,

Guardians of the Air,

I consecrate this wand of willow

and charge it with your energies.

I purify it this night, and make this tool sacred.





Next, face the south and pass the tool over the flame of the candle -- be careful if it's a flammable material like Tarot cards or a robe! -- and repeat the process, saying:



Powers of the South,

Guardians of Fire,

I consecrate this wand of willow

and charge it with your energies.

I purify it this night, and make this tool sacred.





Finally, turn to the west, and pass your ritual tool over the cup of water. Say:



Powers of the West,

Guardians of Water,

I consecrate this wand of willow [or knife of steel, amulet of crystal, etc]

and charge it with your energies.

I purify it this night, and make this tool sacred.





Face your altar, hold the wand (athame/chalice/amulet/whatever) to the sky, and say:



I charge this wand in the name of Old Ones,

the Ancients, the Sun and the Moon and the Stars.

By the powers of the Earth, of Air, of Fire and of Water

I banish the energies of any previous owners,

and make it new and fresh.

I consecrate this wand,

and it is mine.





Now you've not only consecrated the tool, you've claimed ownership. In many Wiccan traditions, it's considered a good idea to put the item to use immediately to bind the consecration and strengthen the energy of the tool. If you've consecrated a wand, athame, or chalice, you can use those in a ceremony to consecrate another tool. If you've consecrated something that is worn, such as an article of clothing (for example, a ritual robe) or a piece of jewelry, begin wearing it now.



What You Need:

Incense

Salt

A candle, preferably white

A cup of water

The tool to be consecrated


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11:34 Nov 16 2010
Times Read: 1,155


In many Pagan and Wiccan traditions, it is considered important to purify or cleanse a space before any sort of ritual can take place. There are a several different ways of doing this, and how you do it will depend in part upon the rules or guidelines of your tradition. If you're a solitary, or your tradition is eclectic, then you may choose the method that works best for you.



Typically, when an area is ritually purified, it is done in a clockwise, or deosil, direction, but this may vary from one tradition to the next.



Smudging

With smudging, you can use sage, sweetgrass, or other herbs. You can also use incense, if you like. The purpose of smudging is to use smoke to carry negative energy out of the area. When you light sage or sweetgrass, allow it to flame for a moment and then blow out the flame. This will leave you with a burning herb bundle, which will create smoke.



Asperging

In some cases, you may wish to use asperging as a method of cleaning a space. Asperging means using liquid -- the power of water -- to purify the area. Although this is typically done by sprinkling consecrated water around the perimeter of the space, you can also asperge with milk, wine, or either of these blended with honey.



Sweeping

Typically, the broom is associated with cleaning and purification. You can use a broom or besom to go around the edges of the space, sweeping negativity away as you go. It's a good idea to start and finish near a door, so that negative energy can literally be swept outside.



Salt

Salt has been used for purification for thousands of years. Use a bowl of sea salt, sprinkled around the area, to cleanse the space and make it sacred.



Fire

In many cultures, fire is used to ritually purify and cleanse a space. You can do this by lighting a candle and walking the area, or sprinkling cooled ashes around the perimeter (although this can be messy to clean up if you're inside!).



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11:34 Nov 16 2010
Times Read: 1,156


The following ritual is for use in initiation by a group. Obviously, while it serves as a useful template for your particular coven, you may need to change things. For example, if your group honors a particular god or goddess, you may wish to include their names in the ceremony. Also, if there are parts of this rite that simply don't apply to your coven's practices or beliefs, eliminate them as necessary. Remember, this is only a sample ritual, and can be adapted or adjusted as you see fit. It is designed to be led by a High Priest or High Priestess, who is assisted by an already-initiated member of the group, referred to as the Guide. The person being initiated is referred to, for this ritual, as the Seeker.



Many covens choose to have their Seekers wait in a room outside the initiation area. If you opt to do this, you may want to light a fire, or create an altar space where the Seekers may meditate or make offerings to the gods of your tradition. It will be the job of the Guide to escort each Seeker to the initiation area.



For this particular rite, upon arrival at the covenstead, the Seeker should give the Guide his or her magical tools so that they can be consecrated by the High Priest or High Priestess. The Seeker is escorted to the waiting area, where they are asked to remove their clothing cover themselves completely in a black sheet. If you don't feel comfortable with ritual nudity, the Seeker may wear a ritual robe and be blindfolded instead.



In the initiation area, the HPS should create a sacred space in the manner of your tradition. If this involves casting a circle, do so at this time. The Guide should bring in each Seeker's magical tools to consecrate. Once all items have been consecrated by the HPs, she will signal the Guide to lead the Seeker into the initiation area. If more than one Seeker is being initiated, each should be led in individually, and the initiation area should be far enough away so that Seekers who are waiting cannot hear what is taking place. As the Guide and Seeker approach, they will pause before entering the initiation area.



The HPs says: Who approaches this sacred space?



Guide: I bring you one who wishes to know the mysteries of this coven, and who wishes to honor the god and goddess.



HPs: Seeker, by what name will you be known within this sacred circle?



The Seeker responds with his or her magical name.



HPs: The gods have deemed you worthy. Please enter the sacred circle, and kneel in their presence.



Once the Seeker has entered the initiation room, there's not much for the Guide to do but wait. After the last Seeker has entered the initiation room, the Guide should quietly enter the room as well and take his place in the circle.



HPs: Seeker, before you are initiated as a Dedicant, are you ready to be purified?



Seeker: Yes.



The Seeker is then ritually purified with earth, air, fire and water -- salt or sand, incense, candle, and consecrated water.



HPs: By joining this coven, you become part of a greater spiritual family. As such, you are part of an endless circle of kinship and hospitality. Hail ye, Gods and Goddesses! Hail to kinsmen and clan, to the ancestors who watch over us, and to those who may follow. Here before you kneels [Name], the Seeker, soon to be a sworn part of this coven.



Seeker, the mysteries of the gods are many. We can never hope to learn them all, but we can indeed follow them on our journey through this life and the next. As a Dedicant, you will learn and grow and evolve every day. You will seek new knowledge, and attain it in direct proportion to your efforts. Let the Gods and the Ancient Ones guide you on your travels.



Are you willing and able to uphold the values and principles of this coven?



Seeker: I am.



HPs: Are you prepared, Seeker, to be born anew, to begin this day a brand new journey, as part of your new spiritual family, and as a child of the Gods?



Seeker: Yes.



HPS: Then rise, [Name], and emerge from the womb of darkness, and be welcomed into the light and love of the Gods. You are no longer a mere Seeker, but a Dedicant of this coven.



At this time, the Dedicant emerges from the covering, and is covered in his or her consecrated ritual robe. If your group has allowed the Dedicant to wear their robe for initiation, at this time remove the blindfold.



HPs: This robe represents your role as a Dedicant within the coven. It marks you before the gods as one who wishes to follow their path.



At this time, the HPs should present the newly-initiated Dedicant with his or her consecrated magical tools.



HPs: I give you these tools, and bid you use them wisely, and always in accordance with the mandates and guidelines of our tradition.



HPs kisses Dedicant.



HPS: Welcome, [Name], to your new family. May you be blessed by the Gods.



If you wish, the HPS may give the Dedicant a certificate of initiation at this time. After each Dedicant is initiated, they should take their place in the circle with the other members of the group.



When the entire group has been initiated formally into the coven, end the ritual with a salute to the gods and goddesses of your tradition.



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