When you look at the models in the magazines, or actress walking down the red carpet you might wonder how they get their makeup to look so perfect. More like how a makeup artist gets the look. While I am not a makeup artists I have learned a few tricks of the trade that I wanted to share. I will be doing a series of these articles but I want to start off with the eyes as they are the most notice feature on a person's face, windows to the soul and all.
Eye Shadow Primer- What is it? It is a nude color creamy like base coat, if you will, that goes over the eye lid and up to your brow line in a thin coat before you put any shadows on your eyes. It helps stop eye shadow from creasing, keeps it in place and makes the shadow color more vibrant. Are they worth it? The eye lid is the thinnest skin on your body and if you have problems with oil in that area I would say you should try it. I have normal skin and do not have a big problem with eye shadows creasing and flaking off so I don’t use it every time I put make up on. Does it make a difference in the vibrancy of the eye shadow? I have found with some brands it does, but with the better more expensive brands of eye shadows that have good pigment (color) it is a waste. Lots of people swear by it so I would say yes, try it.
Creamy Color Eye Shadow- What I do keep in my makeup bag is a black and white creamy eye shadow. Ever purchase a light color eye shadow that you loved in the package but when you put it on your lid it disappears? No matter how much you put on it just doesn’t show as the same color. Enter the white creamy eye shadow. Here is an example of what I am talking about:
Top color is just plain yellow eye shadow of a brand that is known for its pigment, the vibrant color of their eye shadows. The next is the white creamy eye shadow on its own. The last is the white creamy eye shadow used as a base coat, the yellow applied on top. See how the color pops more? That is how you get those pale colors like pinks, blues, and yellows to show up on your eyes. The look below was done with a white base, making the blues stand out.
Now to show you what a black creamy eye shadow base can give to your darker shadows. Ever have a color that you love in the package, but once you put it on the vibrant killer color is not the same? Same with this purple color. In the case it is a dark beautiful color but on the skin - dullness.
Top is the purple color, middle is the creamy black eye shadow by itself, and the bottom is the black with the purple layered on top. That is the color it is in the pot, the one I spent money to have.
You can also use any creamy liner stick as it is the same product, just different delivery system. If you have a purple creamy soft liner then apply a very thin layer you spread on with your finger tip before you add any purple or any shadow for that matter. It is basically the same as a primer but with color.
I stay with the black or white as either of them can make an eye shadow color pop- it even changes the depth of color. Just use care when applying as too much of the creamy eye shadow can lead to problems of creasing, smearing. You want to just use a thin layer; just enough to say you put a base on. And I apply it with just my finger tips. Practice on your forearm or the back of the hand to get use to this, see what colors come out of it.
White and Black Matte Eye Shadows: Remember art class in school? White lighten the color as black darkens it. Basic knowledge of color, the color wheel comes into play when you think about it. I have a blue eye shadow that I love, but it is too dark, needs to lighten up just a little. So I blend it with a little white and a new shade is born. Or if I have a shadow I love as is but what would happen if you make it darker with a little black? These two basic items will change any eye shadow into a different shade. I need a dark green but only packed a pale one or I can’t purchase one till next pay day? Add a little black- it will darken it up, and you might not even need to buy that darker green. How do you mix these?
I use a simple dinning plate to mix my colors in, use a nail cuticle stick that comes in a pack for around a dollar. Take the yellow, scrap a little shadow onto the plate, and then drag a little to the side to add a little white for a pale yellow. Take a little more of the yellow and add black and you get a shade of green. How dark or light you take the yellow depends on how much you blend it with.
The top picture is the eye shadow of yellow. Center is when you add a little white. And the bottom is the green as when you add yellow and black together it makes green. One shade of yellow turns into three with the use of the simple matt black and white shadows. The color wheel is a great tool for makeup and don’t be afraid to play with colors. I am a firm believer in getting your money worth out of makeup, it is too expensive not to.
Mixing Medium: Glitter falling off? That bright red just will not stay put on your eye? Mixing mediums are not something you use every day but if you ever take your look to the edge, to the drama queen that is in all of us… you need some of this magical liquid. You mix just a little with any powder eye shadow and it becomes creamy glue. Black eye shadow turns into a liner that will not smear. I am not kidding- this is the stuff you use to make anything stay. Glitter? Dap a little of the mixing medium onto the area, then with another dry brush you pat the glitter on. Only draw back I have with this product is most are alcohol based and they sting the eye some. I understand they are starting to make this product alcohol free but have not tried them yet. Also it takes good old fashion soap and water to remove it off any brush you use. I have read make up artist also use this with foundation and lipstick but have never tried it in this matter.
To mix this you use the clean plate, putting just a few drops into the center. It doesn’t take much produce to do the job, and it dries fast once you mix it so make sure you are ready to apply before you mix the liquid with any shadow. Here I used a green and brown loose pigment to show you how it works.
Once I put the mixed produce on my skin I also put the same shadows without the mixing liquid to show you just how well it stays, the way the color is affected. On the left is the mixing medium shadow and on the right is just the shadow. I also ran my hand over both several times and this show just how good the ‘glue’ holds, how the line between the two shadows does not blend. Flaking? Rubbing or smearing? Thing of the past.
Cutting Edge: If you see a model with the straight razor edge on the outer side of her eyes, the eye shadow ending in a perfect line and think “How the world do they get such a clean edge?” Simple really- post note, index card, even the package most makeup comes in has a flexible straight edge. I myself use surgical tape. You tear a little piece off the roll and line the clear smooth edge from the corner of your eye up to the brow, how ever far you wish the line to be. Then you use it like the tape you use to keep paint off trim when you paint a room. First picture is the packaging a pair of fake lashes came out of, the second the tape.
The last one you can see I took the tape a little lower then the corner of my eye as I was using a shadow under the lower lash. Tape is easier for me to use as I can place it, move it till each eye matches up, and I have both hands free to apply makeup and hold a mirror if needed. Doesn’t it pull off your foundation when you remove the tape? It can. But then that is a easy fix, more easier then trying to remove dark eye shadow off the foundation, or to repair a crocked edge. A little foundation on a Q tip, press powder to set and the touch up is done.
Tape is a simple trick but has a great impact on your look. One Note- I also used a black creamy base to make the green POP, you can even still see some of it on the lid in the pictures above. Below is the finished look, black cream base and sharp outer edge.
Hope these tricks help you with your makeup, and lead to some experimental looks as you try them. Practice makes perfect, but knowing some of the little tricks just make it more fun. :)
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